Bulldogs dive deep to explore Palau

Every May, a dozen University of Redlands students with a passion for marine conservation pack their scuba and snorkeling gear and make the 7,000-mile journey to Palau, an ecological wonderland in Micronesia.

Led by Professor Lei Lani Stelle and her husband, wildlife photographer Shane Keena, this May Term course is a Redlands staple, developed in the early 2000s by the late Professor and Hedco Chair in Environmental Studies Monty Hempel. His vision was for students to see sustainability in action, and intentionally opened the course to all majors.

“He really wanted it to be something students could experience regardless of what they were studying,” Stelle, who went on her first Palau expedition in 2016, said. Hempel asked her if she would like to lead the trips once he retired, and after he passed away in 2019, Stelle felt this was “a legacy I needed to continue.”

The course’s interdisciplinary approach allows students to have an immersive, hands-on experience that connects back to things they are learning in other classes. During their two-and-a-half weeks in Palau, students study the country’s marine ecology, matriarchal society, sustainability efforts, and World War II history, all while exploring its islands and going on hikes and scuba diving, snorkeling, and kayaking excursions.

“This course truly transformed how I think about marine ecology and conservation,” Brandon Turk ‘25, a human-animal studies major, said. “It was incredibly inspiring to witness firsthand the dedication Palau has to both environmental preservation and maintaining culturally significant practices. Seeing how they integrate ecological care with cultural values broadened my perspective on how conservation can be approached.”

Marissa Dilmeang Spires ’26, a creative writing and psychology major whose mother was born and raised in Palau, saw signing up for the May Term course as a way to further connect with her heritage and learn more about the island. “It opened up a new side of what Palau has to offer, in regard to nature and water,” she said. “We would wake up early and go straight to paddling tours or meet dive and scuba instructors to get the lay of the land. It was something new every day.”

Palau is “one of the most beautiful places on Earth,” Stelle said, with “so much unique wildlife you often don’t get to see in other places.” Giant clams, dugongs, manta rays, frogfish, and barracudas are just a sampling of the marine life found in the waters of Palau, alongside diverse coral reefs.

Students also see firsthand the effects of climate change and pollution. Everything they do in the water is determined by tides, and “we used to be able to rely on the tide table and know exactly what was going to happen,” Stelle said. Now, the tides are changing, making it harder to plan excursions. Another real-life example is the amount of plastic in the water. During beach clean-ups, students realize “this is not local plastic. We are on a tiny little island in the middle of the Pacific—most of that trash is not locally produced. They see the impact.”

There are always new elements to each trip, and in 2024, Spires’ connection to Palau resulted in two major moments: the students meeting the president of Palau, Surangel Whipps Jr., and sharing a traditional Palauan meal with Spires’ extended family in their village. “Palau is still not very well known with a lot of representation,” Spires said. “They felt very proud and humble to serve us.”

When reflecting on their time in Palau, many students describe it as being “life-changing,” Stelle said. Several have gone back for jobs at environmental nonprofits or internships, including Spires, who spent last summer at the Island Times newspaper and wrote articles about the course. Those who have yet to return carry their memories with them and credit the course with changing their outlook on the world.

“Palau was truly unforgettable,” Turk said. “From visiting the capitol in Babeldaob to learning about the enduring history of World War II in Peleliu and the Rock Islands, every moment was impactful. It was a trip that not only broadened my understanding of marine conservation but also deepened my appreciation for the resilience and cultural richness of Palauan life.”

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